I spent the better part of the year between 2005 and 2006 in Lyon, supposedly the gastronomical capital of France. Well, let me just say that Lyonnais food left much to be desired. That’s probably why my favorite restaurant, apart from an Indian place and a Pakistani place, was a Breton mussels and crêpe house called L’Eau Salée.
Moules au curry, frites, kirs bretons
My time in Lyon was life-changing, and I have a feeling a little part of that had to do with this restaurant. L’Eau Salée (“The Salt Water”) serves the most delicious mussels with curry sauce that I have ever had the pleasure of eating. Every time I go to a restaurant and I see this on a menu, I order it, hoping to recreate the magic that I experienced at L’Eau Salée on several occasions, but I am always disappointed. At other places, the sauce always ends up being watery and mild in flavor, leaving you to fill in the blanks in terms of what it probably should have tasted like if it had been done right. At L’Eau Salée, the sauce is thick, flavorful, and perfect for dipping your fat frites (fries), which come with every order of moules (mussels). Of course if curry is not your cup of tea, there are other delicious sauces to sample as well (with cream, provençal sauce, “à l’espagnol,” etc.).
Another specialty of the house is the Kir Breton. This kir is made from cider from Bretagne (Brittany) instead of wine, which reminded me of a pink, alcoholic version of Martinelli’s Apple Cider. Delicious!
Finally, top off your meal with a delicious crêpe for dessert. Actually, I am not so fond of crêpes myself (I know, I’m an anomaly), but I can say that my friends – who are – really savored them.
This moulerie/crêperie is situated in the heart of Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon) in the 5th arrondissement, which is quaint and rich in history. Plus, there are numerous nearby bars that are perfect for a post-dinner drink.
Vieux Lyon by night
L’Eau Salée
4 Rue Trois Maries
69005 Lyon, France
Phone: +33 (0)4 78 42 56 12
Opening Hours: Daily 19:00 – 23:30, except for Monday
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Is it me or those fries look more delicious than the Belgian ones
In an attempt at diplomacy, I will just say, “no comment!”
“At L’eau salée, the sauce is thick, flavorful, and perfect for dipping your fat frites” just this pursuaded me to go to Lyon…
You probably only found the touristic “bouchons” and it’s true that the real ones are quite scarce and difficult to find.
If you’re not looking for French food but rather Japanese (not sushi), I really recommend Goman Etsu, some of the best Japanese dishes I tasted there.
Then for the ultimate Irish pub, go to the Wallace and enjoy some 20+ y.o. whiskeys!
I forgot to mention “l’Epicerie” which is worth a go for simple tasty food in a quite unusual interwar setting!
Thanks for the suggestions, Dimitri!
I also agree about Wallace’s.
The others I didn’t go to. I think I went to a place near l’Epicerie that was pretty good, but I don’t remember the name of it.
I totally agree – the food is truly marvellous with better crepes and gallettes than most found in Breton (Brittany), where they originate.
I am desperate to find out if the owners are still the same people – a dark-haired lady called Kathy was the maitre’d and her partner (I have forgotten his name at the moment)?? also popped in. The chef (when I was there, back in 2006) was called Matheiu. PLEASE can someone let me know if they can remember anything?