It’s no wonder that Pablo Neruda lived in Valparaíso among other painters and writers. Once I was there, I felt that art was pushing to come out in some form or another from my pores. It’s just that much of an inspiring place. You have the ocean, the hills, the houses, the colors, the people. The place is a work of art on its own, and UNESCO agrees. There are a lot of things to see and do in Valparaíso, but something I did while there for a couple of days and that I found quite amusing was simply going up and down the hills looking for the colorful houses, murals, and other forms of street art. And there are a lot, some hidden, some in plain sight, all making the hunt and the urban hiking more exciting and magical. It’s not possible to pinpoint all of their exact location as they change regularly and from place to place.
Cerro Alegre
You can find most of them by following the main streets or by going towards some of the landmarks/sightseeing up on the hills. There are around 7 main hills or “cerros”, Alegre and Concépcion being the most popular and where it will be more likely to find these jewels, but you’re free to roam around the others. You can go up the “cerros” taking a funicular but you can also walk – it’s great exercise. Take the funicular while going down – it is another one of the city’s “coups de grace” and actually worthy of its own post.
Monjas' Funicular
My advice is to take main roads all the time. While I was there, I ended up in some shady places, but luckily I found some nice people warning me not to walk around with a camera and look touristy because there were some guys robbing tourists. That was a surprise to me because, to be honest, I felt it was quite a safe and quiet place. I guess the higher up the hill you go, the more dangerous it gets, so stop at half-way up the hill. They advised me to take the buses to go up and down the hills, which is also quite cheap. After the warning, I started going down the hill and on the way, I met a couple of construction workers on their lunch break who reinforced the warning, telling me not to go down on foot, but to take the bus. They even offered me lunch, took a group picture, and took me to the bus. Conclusion: don’t be afraid asking the people where to go, because they are very helpful.
Cerro Concépcion
In the end, it was a magical experience and, after all, it’s all about being a bit streetwise. Valparaíso lives up to its name – Paradise valley.
Valparaíso
Valparaíso, Chile
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