Colonia de Sacramento is a small town located a one-hour ferry ride away from Buenos Aires, across the Río de la Plata. Historically, it has switched hands between the Portuguese who founded it and the Spanish numerous times. The Barrio Historico (the historic neighborhood) is now a UNESCO world heritage site. It has small cobblestone streets reflecting the time of the Portuguese founding, while the newer part of town that surrounds it has somewhat more modern buildings and wider avenues, reflecting the Spanish influence.
I have to admit, I don’t have fond memories of having been in Colonia, because it was rainy and the windiest day ever. I seriously thought the wind would pick me up from the lighthouse and throw me out to sea! I was holding on to that railing for dear life! So, my fondest memory revolves around my food (what a shock!).
El Drugstore - Lively interior
We ate a delicious lunch at El Drugstore, which is on the Plaza de Armas. Apparently this is also the main night spot in Colonia, but we didn’t stick around till evening to check it out since we had to catch our ferry back to Buenos Aires.
The decorations inside El Drugstore were a stark contrast to the gray weather outside. The key word here is color! The walls, doors, tablecloths, and chairs are all painted yellow, red, blue, green… and there are colorful posters of pieces by Picasso, Kahlo, etc. hanging everywhere. There is a piano decorating the space above the toilet area, and a small stage for live performances. What I liked best of all was that the kitchen was open and part of the same room as the dining area, so you can also watch the chefs at work and maybe try to pick up on a few tips as to how to prepare your yummy meal at home.
El Drugstore - The kitchen
The atmosphere is so lively, cosy, and warm. Even the menu matches the colorful, art-filled decor of the restaurant and also offers some entertainment in itself. It’s at least a couple of dozen pages long and each page has a background picture of a painting as well, often quite tongue-in-cheek (a picture of a pig wearing a tuxedo and monacle on the “vege” page, a picture of a young Lolita-type girl on the dessert page, etc.).
El Drugstore - The funky menu
I enjoyed a nice plate of bread with salmon that had been smoked in vodka as my starter, and for the main course, shrimp cooked in a delicious curry, served on two beds of rice. They also offer local specialties like Chivito and other meat-based dishes, vegetarian options, pastas, sushi, nice soups and salads… the list goes on and on – there is definitely something for everyone.
El Drugstore - Curry shrimp with rice
You can notice the restaurant from a bit of a distance, as there is a spacious vintage car parked outside the restaurant, where a more romantically-inclined couple can sit and eat in privacy at the table installed inside, with speakers that allow them to enjoy the musical entertainment going on inside too, if they so desire.
During nicer weather, there are outdoor tables as well, which offer a nice view of the square and the cathedral. But, even then, I would recommend sitting inside, if it’s not full, to enjoy the atmosphere and the live music. The musicians vary every day, and probably even from lunch until dinner, although I’m not certain of this. When I was there, there was a guitarist/singer that the crowd really seemed to enjoy – some diners even joined in for a few of the songs.
El Drugstore - A table for two inside a vintage car
If you do decide to visit Colonia, try to find a nicer day than I did. There are cute little cobblestone streets and a nice coast line to sit or walk on after eating a good meal at El Drugstore… just not if you feel like you’re in the tornado scene from the Wizard of Oz!
El Drugstore
Portugal 174
Colonia del Sacramento
Uruguay
