I once had an awkward moment with a girl I met in Seattle when I asked her a personal question and instead of answering she changed the subject to “when I was in Portugal I tasted the Port wine and it was really nice”. Apart from being passive-aggressive, she was right. If you go to Porto and you don’t go to a Port wine cellar, it’s like meeting Jesus and not asking him to do that turning water into wine trick. It’s true that Porto has other beautiful things to be appreciated than just that delicious alcoholic drink made from God’s tears, but the Port wine production is what made the city internationally known and developed the whole Douro region.
Technically most of all wine cellars are not located in Porto. There will be some up the river but you will find a larger amount of them on the other side of the bridges in Vila Nova de Gaia. There are a bunch of different cellars, each representing a brand/family/property. The one I visited with my entourage and that will be here described was called Croft. I don’t know if the other cellars offer the same services when it comes to guided tours, maybe they do and they’re part of a wine cellar guided tour cartel. If not, please let us know.
Croft Port Wine Cellars - The wine for tasting
The cellar’s entrance is located a little bit up a hill, in what looks like a farmhouse, except that we’re surrounded by a city…but if you ignore that it just feels like the countryside. There is a terrace outside where, on a go0d day, you can sit after the tour to enjoy all the goodness you bought inside. The tour costs around €8 per person (in a group of 9) but you should check before, because prices may vary. It includes a guide in English or French and 5 different bottles of Port wine for tasting. Yummy! We had a scheduled tour at 10:00 in the morning. Although it was a Sunday, it was not busy, so I guess it’s OK to show up without setting up a visit. But I suggest scheduling it – it’s fancier when you arrive and say it! See the website below.
Croft Port Wine Cellars - Entrance
The guided tour took us through the different rooms where the wine is kept in barrels at room temperature (quite refreshing on a hot summer day). The guide introduced us to the history of Port wine, the history of the company, and even some of the competitors. We also got an overview of how the wine is produced, selected, and stored. One of the things that kept most people’s attention was about declaring “Vintage“ for a good year. To make it short, it’s the top quality one, so it is more expensive. I guess everyone had Euro signs on their eyes because Vintage bottles can be stored for years while the price goes up, and some people make an investment out of it. Gotta have a good storage place though.
Croft Port Wine Cellars - The cellars
After the guided tour is over (which takes around 30 minutes, depending on how many questions you have) the fun part begins – the tasting. I absolutely recommend going in the morning after no more than a light breakfast. Not only will you taste the wine better but you will also taste its side effects better too. We were presented with 5 bottles. One was the a new product from Croft called Pink. You’re supposed to drink it cold (with ice), and it’s aimed at a younger segment of the market. Ideal for the summer, or any time of the year if you want. There was also a White Port wine, a Tawny, a Ruby and a Vintage. Your taste buds will overdose. Preferences may vary but for sure you will notice the difference in color and taste among them and you can pick your favorite. The guide will also give you a brief explanation of how they should be served and what it tastes better with in terms of food. Then you’re free to take your time and party.
Croft Port Wine Cellars - Some of the wines available
Of course, all this publicity doesn’t come cheap. Once you’re done tasting the wine you’ll definitely want more for later. You just took the bait. Conveniently placed there is a store, so it will be no surprise seeing people coming out of there with hands full of bags. Buying the wine there or somewhere else won’t make a difference in terms of price, the only difference is what you’re planning to do next and if you want to carry the bags around. You will find the same brand and others all over Porto… hell, all over Portugal. You can also get a list of distributors in several countries, so you might even be able to get the same things back home.
They also sell chocolates from two Belgian chocolate houses to go with the wine while you’re tasting or even if you buy a bottle and want to drink it there. They’re not that cheap of course, but you can sneak in some chocolates from outside in your bag before you go. Bring dark chocolate and strawberry truffles, they go very well with the Ruby and the Vintage.
Croft Port Wine Cellars - Lots of barrels
Once you’re done with the tasting (or just plain drinking at that point) rolling down the hill will put you back sharp and ready for lunch (see Andreea’s post recommending Bogani Café)…or for another wine cellar. That might be something for a next trip. A wine cellar rally for a day.
Croft Port Wine Cellars
Rua Barão de Forrester N. 412
Vila Nova de Gaia
Portugal
Phone: +351 223742800 / +351 223756433
Perfect post! Detail missing: the thick air with the mature grape smell inside the cellar. Plus I think I could hear the sea but it was probably my imagination!
