Submitted by:
Maria Romano
San Diego, California
The Victor Emanuel Monument (“Il Vittoriano”) is impossible to miss on a visit to Rome. It is a 230 foot tall temple-like monstrosity in white travertine with massive corinthian columns and a million statues situated in the middle of Piazza Venezia, one of Rome’s main piazze. The monument is dedicated to the first king of unified Italy, Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoy, and houses a free museum all about Italian reunification as well as the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (a World War I memorial).
Il Vittoriano
When the monument was planned in the late 19th century, many Italians were annoyed that such a massive and discordant commemoration of a king most people were opposed to would be planted smack in the middle of an incredibly important historical area; in fact, its construction necessitated the destruction of a medieval neighborhood and a chunk of the Capitoline Hill. There is, of course, an excellent reason for this – Rome has a long tradition of symbolically associating rulers and power, and the general idea was that the new Kingdom of Italy would be as invincible as the ancient Roman and Roman Catholic ones in their heydays. Putting a huge reminder of the brand new government next to the seat of the early Roman kingdom and papally-funded, Michelangelo-designed Renaissance buildings (now the must-see Capitoline Museums) was sure to make it last forever (even though it didn’t even last 100 years). Mussolini famously channeled this power as well while giving speeches from the balcony of Palazzo Venezia, the Renaissance-era Venetian Consulate on the northwest side of the piazza.
Nowadays Palazzo Venezia is the main Art History library of Rome, where I labored for hours over hand-written card catalogues in four languages (I know, right), and Piazza Venezia is a smoggy, traffic-filled mess/intersection/bus depot, with frantic, jaywalking tourists and immigrants from North Africa dressed like gladiators.
Crazy lady thinking she's in "La Dolce Vita" in front of Il Vittoriano
Rise above the crazy at the perfectly located Caffetteria Italia, located on the east side behind the monument. To get there, climb the steps (the Cordonata) up to the Piazza del Campidoglio (the piazza between the Capitoline Museums), pass the bronze reproduction of Marcus Aurelius on horseback, and climb the steps on your left behind the Palazzo Nuovo. It’s a pretty standard tavola calda (“hot table,” meaning prepared pastas, salads, and panini are served) in quality and price (about €6 for panini, €7-10 for dishes, glasses of wine starting at €5), but the the glass walls offer a million-dollar view.
Caffetteria Italia - Terrace with a view
The tables are situated in a massive metal and glass porch, and no matter which table you choose, the view is absolutely breathtaking. It is one of the few high places in Rome where you can comfortably chill and study the low skyline, an enticing maze of Renaissance palazzi, Baroque churches, medieval church towers, and ancient ruins. The east side boasts the best view of the Forum of Trajan, with the medieval Torre delle Milizie above, while toward the southeast there is a fabulous view of the Forum and Colosseum.
Caffetteria Italia - Terrace view of the Forum of Trajan
Stay for aperitivi (free food with drink purchases!) around 7 PM and linger till it closes so you can see the same view, beautifully lit, after nightfall. It’s a perfect rest stop after a long day of shopping, sightseeing, or whatever it is you like to do in the caput mundi (“head of the world”).
Caffetteria Italia - Nighttime view of the Forum and Colosseum
Caffetteria Italia
Piazza Venezia
00187 Roma, Italy
Phone: +39 06 6780905
Photo credits: Photos of Caffetteria Italia, Forum of Trajan, and Nighttime view by Albert Chin (more on Atlas Parasite’s Flickr); Il Vittoriano photos by Andreea Geambașu.
Huh, cool. Never knew that was there.