Last month commemorated the 20 year anniversary of the televised kangaroo trial and execution of Nicolae and Elena Ceaușescu on December 25, 1989… Merry Christmas! This was also my first winter back in Romania since leaving the country only a couple of weeks after that fateful day. Upon my return I was expecting to see some form of commemoration. There were a few wreaths here and there throughout the city, a few reportages on some of the news channels on TV remembering the events leading up to that day, but all in all, there didn’t seem to be any big fuss made. Nothing like the extravagant $10 million celebration that took place in Berlin during the previous month for the anniversary of the fall of the wall. Maybe it has to do with Romania’s disillusionment with how things have gone since the revolution, and the skepticism at it even being called a revolution in the first place, when all that happened is some title changes and some shifts in power among the same old-guard people. There is still a shame and suspicion about the way things went down, about the people that died and why, what for, and was it a set up?

The Palace seen from an airplane

Now on the 20th anniversary of Romania’s “democratization” it is a prefect time to focus on the country’s premier symbol of oppression, Ceaușescu’s palace. It is the second largest building in the world after the Pentagon in the US and it was essentially built by modern slave labor. While Ceaușescu was exporting the nation’s agricultural production to pay off the country’s debts to the West, the people lived miserably on rationed food allowances from the government. Meanwhile, this guy was tearing down the historic sites of the city, including Orthodox and Protestant churches, synagogues, and tens of thousands of residences, and building himself a big ol’ imposing eyesore for all to see. It was called the People’s Palace though, so it’s all good right?!?!

A tiny part of the facade

The best part about it is that Ceaușescu never got to live in there because the people said “off with his head!” before it was even completed. Even to this day it remains incomplete because, surprise surprise, this thing cost over $10 billion already!

Amazing crystal chandeliers

I had a chance to visit it a little over a year ago and see the inside. I have to say it was pretty impressive. It is definitely huge and extravagant, and everything is made from domestic resources, like marble, wood, silk, crystal, gold, etc.  It’s hard to admire the luxury when you know the terrible history behind it, though. Somehow it’s different from a palace like, say, Versailles, where you know it was also built by forced labor while the people went hungry…but that was hundreds of years ago so maybe you don’t care so much? This was 25 years ago…

Ornate interiors, complete with rare rose marble

Anyway it’s a historic monument and it was interesting to go around and learn about each room that was on the guided tour and hear about how all Ceaușescu’s paranoias played into the design of the place. For example, many of the patterns on the marble are actually maps of the palace… possibly to serve as an escape route? Also, there was no air conditioning because he was afraid people would poison him through such a system, so instead there were just ventilation holes in certain rooms that pump air from outside. There are also many escape routes and several floors of the building are actually underground…you know, in case of an attack on his life or some kind of bomb threat.

No air conditioning, only air holes

Today, this monstrosity houses the Romanian parliament, but of course much of it goes unused. It was originally intended to be Ceaușescu’s residence and to house the office of the Presidency, the Parliament, the Government, and the Supreme Court (hence the rectangular shape). There have been talks for many years over what should be done with the building. More recently it has been thought of as a potential commercial and cultural center, as well as the world’s largest casino. The casino and shopping center idea both seem quite tacky and ironic, but a cultural center would be a wonderful addition to Bucharest’s landscape. There is plenty of room for art galleries, performance centers, museums, courses, etc. as well as certain commercial enterprises. It would also be quite symbolic for charitable organizations to be housed there as a way to turn something negative into a positive. Who knows what the future will hold though. Bucharest is the city of malls, and I would not be surprised if they turn this place into another tacky display of the joys of their new-found capitalism.

Huge luxurious hall

The Palace of the Parliament
Str. Izvor, nr. 2-4, sect. 5
Bucharest, Romania
Phone: +40 (0) 21 316 0300 / +40 (0) 21 414 1111
Website: http://www.cdep.ro/pls/dic/site.page?id=27
Opening Hours: Daily 10:00 – 16:00

Related links:

Dopplr

Wikipedia – Palace of the Parliament

News article on the future of the palace (in Romanian)

National Geographic Romania – The Life of Nicolae Ceausescu (translated to English by me!)

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