I do not recommend arriving in Sydney early Sunday morning after a long long flight while the rest of the city is all hung over from the Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras (note: you should be there FOR Mardi Gras). So what do you want the most in that case? My answer is a shower, a room and maybe a bed to catch up on some sleep and get rid of that jet lag. Well that was not possible and most likely it won’t be unless you plan ahead. So either you get there at around check-in time, ask for an early check-in in advance, or you will have to entertain yourself while the city still sleeps. For the record, we got there around 8:00 AM.
Since our hotel was not far from the city center, a walk in town was inevitable, and of all the things to see, the nearest and what seemed to be the greatest time burner and entertainment in this situation were the Royal Botanic Gardens. And I couldn’t think of a better and quieter time to do it than on a sunny, hangover Sunday morning. Let the people sleep; the gardens are ours.
The Morshead Fountain Gate to the Gardens
The gardens have several places to start from. In our case since we were coming from Hyde Park and MacQuarie St., we got in through the Morshead Fountain Gate. As we are not native Australian or Pacific Islanders, every single plant we saw seemed exotic, and the trees alien. If you’re really into it, spend some time checking the names and where they come from. Also pay attention to the sounds. We did, but then again we were dropped half a world away from our natural habitat. Every bird sounded different from what we are used to, and sometimes even more annoying. It was too bright too look up anyway for the birds. Our eyes were focused on the ground level and on something that we had no trouble finding – huge spiders, the golden silk orb-weavers. You will find plenty of those in between the plants, each one bigger than the previous one. They must be well fed around there. Take the opportunity to snatch some photos to show back home, if you don’t have such big ones. They’re not poisonous but they are intimidating and probably they can still cause some pain. Damn! Their legs alone are enough to poke an eye out.
Don't interrupt lunch!
Back to the plants. Besides the ones you find outside, there’s also a pavilion not far from the entrance containing some extra species that require more humidity – the Tropical Centre. The entry should be around AU$2, all to help the conservation, but when we got there it was closed. It can happen sometimes. But don’t be sad, just across the entrance from the Tropical Centre there is a Pacific Rainforest footpath that you should take. It goes in between the trees and some spider webs… well they’ll be on the side or above, not blocking the path so no worries.
In front of the Tropical Centre, look for dragonflies
As we went through the path the “annoying bird” noise was getting louder and louder, and there was a lot of caca on the ground. We figured we were under their hive or something. That’s when my travel partner decided to look up. We really didn’t read much about the fauna and flora of Sydney ahead, because we were kind of caught by surprise when we realized that the sound that has been following us since we first got into the gardens was not of birds but of these huge bats. Everything is huge in Australia (in a non-scientifical study). They call them the flying foxes and it seems like they’re a real plague there (so we’ve heard), although they feed on fruit, not on human blood. There were so many, it seemed like they grow on trees… well, hang on trees. Anyway, that path seemed dangerous now since it was covered in guano and we learned from Bear Grylls in one those episodes where he defies logic and everything we believe (not the enema one) that guano contains ammonia and that’s bad (I believe everything he says). We were in out in the open but still, I wanted no guano on my head, especially after seeing one big chunk falling in front of us. That made me wonder how do bats actually do it since they’re supposed to be upside down… A thought for later.
If it sees you, you'll become its property
Anyway, the path was fun in between guano, bats, spiders and amazing trees. Back to the civilized road. Across the gardens, you will also find a couple of sculptures. There are fountains, ducks, ducklings, fireflies, lillypads, hobos, children – all the things you find in the wild. And when you walk all the way through the park you reach Farm Cove where you’ll get a beautiful view of Sydney Harbour. There were people fishing (have no idea what), a lot of joggers, tourists, and locals starting their lazy Sunday. When we were around, they were also setting up a post Mardi Gras afternoon party by the Cove sponsored by Gaydar. Couldn’t think of better place to have a drink and a party than in Farm Cove.
One of the fountains in the gardens
As for facilities in the gardens, besides the free toilets which are quite central, it also include a café. Don’t expect the food to be spectacular by what I could glance, OK price to quality ratio. It will be the place for a snack or a drink. And since we were wearing our hot winter European garments (already layered down a bit) a drink (or two) was all we needed. While there, we read that they have free guided tours at certain times. Check the website for it. If you do it, you’ll get more valid input than just reading the labels…unless your travel partner is a botanist. Always bring a botanist with you, that’s what my mother used to say! I know, I’m such a disappointment.
You can also ride the Choo Choo Express. And yeah, you guessed it, it’s a touristic train that goes around the gardens while you’re sitting on your ass and someone describes it for you. No, seriously it can be good if you’re too tired or have mobility issues, I’m just jealous I didn’t take it. There’s a fee for it – AU$10 for adults AU$5 for children.
The size of a football!!!
Once you’re done with the gardens or the sun is too hot for you to bare, you can choose wherever you want to go: Circular Quay, Opera House, Woolloomooloo Bay - everything is at a short walking distance. That’s another curious thing: direction signs around the park use time as the distance marker, not meters – never saw that anywhere before. We decided to go to the Opera House (around it at least) since we had enough time left before we could go back to the hotel, but that’s material for another post. In the meanwhile, have a look at the photos and check the links for more information. I guess the botanical gardens are a must when in Sydney, but if you’re not planning to go to Sydney, maybe after this, you will!
Alien trees
Royal Botanic Gardens
Mrs. Macquarie Road
Sydney NSW 2000, Australia
Phone: + 61 2-9231 8111 or weekends +61 2-9231 8125
Fax: +61 2-9231 8054
Website: http://www.rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au/welcome_to_bgt/royal_botanic_gardens
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